Demolitions in Morocco's Imsouane surf town spark debate on inclusive tourism development

Moroccan_Surf_Town_Imsouane
5 min read
15 August, 2024

Imsouane, a renowned surf village in Southern Morocco, underwent extensive demolitions seven months ago as part of a government initiative to reclaim illegally occupied maritime domains.

Omar, a 26-year-old freelance surf instructor from a nearby fishing community, reflects on the suddenness of the demolitions: "We knew it was coming one day, but we never expected we would be given only 24 hours to leave our places," he tells The New Arab.

Despite the initial shock, Imsouane's close-knit surf community quickly mobilised, and within weeks, several of the destroyed businesses managed to relocate.

Locals were determined to rebuild their enterprises and restore the village’s reputation as a surf haven.

However, the demolitions led to a significant drop in tourism, facilitated by negative news coverage painting a bleak picture that led many to believe the entire village had been destroyed.

Omar notes, “Imsouane, with its magical waves, is still here. Most of the town had been unaffected, and we continue to rebuild what had been destroyed.”

This sentiment is echoed by Duna, a 24-year-old visitor from the Netherlands, “I was initially hesitant to visit due to the news, but upon arrival, I was captivated by the loving community and thriving surf scene.”

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Moroccan surf town Imsouane [Renée Boskaljon]

Currently, new shops are being constructed in front of Imsouane’s famous bay.

Thirty-two-year-old Issa, a local entrepreneur and president of Imsouane’s local association, explains, “Some of us are granted temporary places for six months after we applied for a national program of kiosks.”

Issa tells The New Arab that 12 kiosks were offered through public auctions, with the highest bidders winning the contracts.

He emphasises, “We are still working with the authorities towards long-term solutions as many business owners have yet to find alternative locations.”

The association advocates for a permanent marketplace to provide small businesses with legal and stable locations.

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Development and cultural preservation debates

According to Moroccan economist Rachid Sari, the government’s campaign to clear public domains aligns with Morocco’s broader ambitions to boost its tourism sector.

"The government campaign aims to enhance Morocco’s tourism sector and infrastructure, especially with major sporting events coming up," he states. 

Sari highlights the 2026 Africa Cup and the 2030 World Cup, which Morocco will co-host with Portugal and Spain. 

"With tourism currently constituting around 7 to 10 percent of the economy, the strategies in place could push this figure to over 15 percent and create around 120,000 new jobs," he states. 

Despite the potential benefits, the demolitions have sparked protests among villagers and surf enthusiasts who fear erosion of local culture and livelihoods.

Mustapha, a 23-year-old local surfer, voices his concerns to The New Arab: "I fear they'll do this to all Morocco's coasts — taking small, famous places and giving them to the rich for big business. This isn't right; it takes from the poor to enrich the already wealthy."

Amid the controversy, there is also support for the government’s regulation efforts. Some view the demolitions as an opportunity to address longstanding issues.

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Mustapha surfing in surf spot Imsouane [Renée Boskaljon]

An anonymous entrepreneur praises the government for taking back control and notes, “Authorities had turned a blind eye for decades to how businesses operated. Places were popping up without regulation for safety, workers were treated inadequately, and sewage water flowed directly into the ocean.”

Proponents argue that the government’s actions could lead to better business regulations and enhanced worker rights.

Zina, who works in one of Imsouane's luxury hotels, argues, "I believe it is good the government has dismantled these businesses; they have not been paying taxes for years, and those employed often worked under harsh conditions without legal papers."

The 23-year-old is hopeful that the rumoured luxury resorts in Imsouane will create jobs and provide more secure employment compared to some of the demolished businesses.

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Calls for inclusive tourism development

In response to these criticisms, some business owners have argued that they have tried to legalize their business without success.

“I and many others have tried relentlessly to legalise our business, but we were not given sufficient support to transition our businesses into a more legal status,” argues Issa.

Running a business is a common aspiration among locals in Imsouane seeking financial independence.

Mustapha dreams of setting up a surf school for commercial and charitable purposes. He explains, “Surfing is expensive. I want my surf school to generate enough income to support myself and offer free courses to local children who often cannot afford surf equipment.”

Although his current job at an upmarket hotel provides him with a relatively higher salary compared to many other jobs in Morocco, the rising cost of living and rent in Imsouane makes it challenging for him to save enough to start his business.

He adds, “I’m open to what the future will bring. I hope to stay in Morocco and fulfil my dream, but if that doesn’t work out, I might consider going abroad.”

Leaving Imsouane is not an option for 28-year-old Mohammed, who lost the family guesthouse he ran with his aunt during the demolitions.

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Family guesthouse owner Mohammed in Imsouane [Hamza Mouhcin]

“We, locals, made this place popular before wealthy entrepreneurs arrived, so we should have the right to continue our businesses,” Mohammed told The New Arab

He emphasises, "We have more to offer tourists because we know the area and can show its beauty," drawing attention to the unique value of community-driven enterprises over corporate ventures.

“We were running the place together. She had been enjoying life next to the ocean for over a decade. After the demolitions, she had to return to the mountains. It is as if you take a fish out of the water.”

Mohammed’s biggest wish is for his aunt to return from the mountains to experience the ocean’s beauty.

As discussions continue about Imsouane’s future, optimism persists alongside calls for inclusive planning and sustainable tourism practices.

Surf instructor Omar concludes, "Many friends and I are not against tourism investment, such as the hotels everyone is talking about, or more regulation.

"We hope that whatever comes will make Imsouane more attractive and help the local community."

Renée Boskaljon is a freelance journalist based in North Africa. She recently graduated with a Master's degree in Refugee Protection and Forced Migration Studies from SOAS University