Minorities in north Iraq rebuild their lives after IS
Last December, for the first time in four years, Christmas carols were heard.
A few kilometers away the shrine of Imam Rida, the eighth of Shia Islam's 12 imams, has been restored after it was blown up by IS who consider Shia to be heretics.
Yazidis rebuild their temples
The Kurdish-speaking Yazidi minority has also managed to rebuild 20 of 23 temples destroyed by IS in the Bashiqa area, east of Iraq's second city Mosul.
"All this was done thanks to donations from Yazidis and other inhabitants of the region," said Hilal Ali, who is in charge of the Yazidi sites of worship.
Mutassem Abed, 47, is a Shia who joined the Hashd al-Shaabi coalition of paramilitary units following a call to arms in 2014 by Grand Ayatollah Ali Sistani, Iraq's most senior Shia cleric.
The Hashd was formed specifically to counter the rise of IS in the country, and played a key role in the group's defeat in 2017.
Now that the fighting has ended, Abed is looking to his future.
"We must rebuild a sanctuary that is even more beautiful and even bigger, to say to IS that it did not win," the Shabak fighter told AFP, wearing a parka over his uniform.
Life may slowly be returning to normal, but many checkpoints have been set up, usually manned by members of Hashd units from the Shabak, Turkmen, Christian or Yazidi minorities.
Iraq is relying on local forces to maintain security on the ground, after declaring in December that the war against IS had been won.
Such fighters know the local people, speak their languages and can easily spot any intruders, commanders say.
Fighters with local knowledge
"Even before IS, other terrorist groups like al-Qaeda tried to chase out minorities," said Zein al-Abidine Jamil, a Shabak commander with the Hashd.
Another Bartalla Shabak, a policeman manning a checkpoint in the old part of Mosul, recalled the days when he could only enter the city under escort.
"Mosul? I went there on patrol. But never in a personal capacity. A lone Shia? That would have been madness!" he said, speaking on condition of anonymity.
Sunni Muslims are a minority in Iraq, but in Mosul they form the majority and also have a presence in villages around the city.
The Shabak minority has a small Sunni community within it. But, residents say, many of them joined IS and were killed. Others fled with their families, joining the ranks of the displaced.
Today, several months after Nineveh province was rid of IS, "we are directly responsible for the security of citizens", said Jamil.
Because of their local knowledge, such fighters were a major asset to the armed forces in their fightback against IS.
But human rights groups have charged that some minorities targeted by IS were themselves guilty of abuses.
In December, the New York-based Human Rights Watch accused Yazidi fighters of executing 52 civilians in apparent revenge killings after capturing territory from IS.
HRW said those killed included women and children, and came from eight families of the Sunni tribe Al-Bu Metewut who were fleeing clashes between IS and pro-government militias north of Mosul.