Drained of life: Drought threatens to render ancient boatbuilding traditions extinct in southern Iraq

Year on year, droughts and climate change have led many boatbuilders in southern Iraq to lose their livelihoods and their ancient way of life. 

Jawad Kadhim, a boatbuilder from Huwair (80km north of Basra) is one of the many boat builders who has been forced to sacrifice his profession and become a general carpenter. Instead of making boats, Jawad now makes doors, windows, closets and sofas.

"I sincerely hope that one day we'll be able to revive our Sumerian heritage and return to the boat business. We can't let it disappear. We see tourists often come to the marshes to explore the area, it's imperative the government finds a way to revive our industry," Jawad told The New Arab.

"We're experiencing very harsh times, the marshes are drying up, causing many to lose their jobs. Droughts have caused water levels to decline which further affects our work and our customer base.

"One can equate the boat-making industry to simple mathematics: no water equals no business and Meshouf [narrow-boat] construction," said Jawad while sipping a cup of tea. 

"As a river-based society, Iraq’s watercraft and maritime heritage are central to its culture. Crafts are made with organic methods and materials as an essential link which connects culture to the environment and creates a distinctive regional aesthetic and a unique set of skills. Protecting and reviving these traditions is crucial to the survival of Iraqi culture"

In the past, Jawad made both big boats and small boats used as souvenirs. He has an illustrious customer list: one of his small boats was delivered to Queen Elizabeth II of Britain, and others have been shipped around the world. The last boat Jawad made was given to Pope Francis when he visited Iraq. 

These boats, called Meshouf, are similar to canoes and can be seen in the marshes of southern Iraq. Yet Meshouf's are on the decline due to rising rates of desertification, low rainfall, and government negligence, each combining to threaten the industry. 

Huwair used to be a centre of boatbuilding in the southern part of Iraq, once boasting an industry of up to 2000 builders in the 1960s. Whilst the tradition lives on, the number of workshops is now a fraction of what it used to be. 

On June 17, 2022, a joint press report issued by the UN and a group of NGOs called for direct action to support Iraq in managing its climate crisis. Iraq is listed as one of the top five countries most affected by climate change, ranking 39th most water-stressed.

The report also stated that, within Iraq, the southern province of Basra is the most affected by water scarcity, threatening four million people's access to water.

This lack of water has affected the wetlands leading many people like Jawad to lose their job as well as decimating the local fishing industry. 

Safina Project, an NGO based in the UK and run by artist Rashad Salim, has dedicated its resources to finding creative ways to revive the boating industry not only in southern Iraq but nationwide. The project "Ark Re-Imagined" has helped remind people of Iraq's ancient craft heritage through participatory projects driven by art and design. 

Rashad told The New Arab: "Every region in Iraq has a local type of boat. Our projects are hoping to shed light on them and bring these boats back to the waters, not just in Huwair, but across Iraq.

“As a river-based society, Iraq’s watercraft and maritime heritage are central to its culture. Crafts are made with organic methods and materials as an essential link which connects culture to the environment and creates a distinctive regional aesthetic and a unique set of skills. Protecting and reviving these traditions is crucial to the survival of Iraqi culture," Rashad added.

"Meshoufs have completely disappeared from our riverbeds. Of course, much of that has to do with the recent conflicts, but even still, when I came to Huwair not even the cheapest and simplest types of boasts (used by women to harvest reeds) were being used. Our mission is twofold: to bring these boats back and to pass on the knowledge of boatbuilding from one generation to the next."

Rashad's work in Huwair has brought attention to the new generation of boatbuilders and has encouraged them to further learn about local boats.

Zuhair Resan, 43 years old from Huwair, said: “When I was eight, I used to help my father, but a couple of years later, business stopped. Three years ago, my cousins and I rebuilt a workshop to build the boats for Mr Rashad Salim.

"We're the last generation of Meshouf builders in the area, if we die, this job will die with us. I hope the government can find a way to support this industry from going extinct."

Zuhair added that the boats have the added benefit of being ecosystem friendly and are made from organic materials so as not to damage the environment.

"When I'm working, I ask my sons to help me so that they can learn about my craft. We must continue to pass this knowledge down so that business eventually returns to the area."

Azhar Al-Rubaie is a freelance journalist based in Iraq. His writing focuses on a variety of issues, including politics, health, society, wars, and human rights. 

Follow him on Twitter: @AzherRubaie